New Orleans is one of the most distinctive cities in the United States. Founded by the French in 1718 as La Nouvelle-Orléans, it became part of the United States in 1803. It has grown over time into a vibrant and diverse city, with a rich cultural tapestry that includes French, Spanish, African, Native American and Caribbean elements. This eclectic heritage is reflected in its distinctive architecture, renowned cuisine, and lively culture. Notably, New Orleans is the birthplace of jazz, which developed in the late 19^th century from a convergence of African rhythms, European harmonies, and Caribbean influences. And it is in New Orleans that one of the largest, oldest and most culturally significant American celebrations is held every year: Mardi Gras.

An ancient festivity

The origins of Mardi Gras can be traced back to religious observances in medieval Europe. Back then, there was a long period of feasting and celebration between the Christmas season and the beginning of Lent, the 40-days of spiritual reflection and of fasting preceding Easter. This festive period before the austerity of Lent was called Carnival. Its last day was known as “fat Tuesday” – Mardi Gras in French – referring to the practice of indulging one last time in rich, fatty foods before Lent. In New Orleans, Mardi Gras celebrations are held during the whole Carnival period, starting on January 6, although the most important ones take place during its last week. Over the years, Mardi Gras evolved from its religious roots into a cultural event. Although it has been celebrated since French colonial times, it was in 1857 that the first formal Mardi Gras parade was held, establishing a tradition that continues to this day.

Parades, krewes, throws 

The Mardi Gras large parades are organized by groups called “krewes.” These krewes create colorful floats, which are platforms carrying elaborate papier-mâché and fiberglass sculptures that move through the city streets. These floats can be compared to similar ones that parade in Carnival celebrations around the world, like the “carri allegorici” in Italy. Many New Orleans krewes have developed their own distinctive float styles, but all share a taste for the colourful and flamboyant. People on the floats throw small gifts, known as “throws”, to the crowds. These gifts include an enormous quantity of beads (that all participants are tacitly required to wear), doubloons, cups with the krewes insignias, all kinds of trinkets and small toys, and even decorated toilet brushes! The parades also include marching bands, cheerleaders, dancers, baton-twirlers, torch-bearers, riders on horseback, and hundreds of marchers in all kinds of costumes, from Elvis impersonators to mermaids, from French queens to cowboys.

The Black Masking Indians

Another sight to see is the Black Masking Indians (aka Mardi Gras Indians). They represent a unique African American subculture dating back to the 1800s when Native Americans provided safe refuge for runaway slaves, and when Blacks were not allowed to participate in official Mardi Gras celebrations. These African American groups, that call themselves tribes, parade the streets of New Orleans, chanting and playing music, dressed in amazing hand-sewn suits that can take a year to craft. Their performances are meant to convey both spiritual and political liberation, and to communicate ideas about justice, hope, transformation and renewal. A notable tribe is the North Side Skull and Bone Gang. Since 1819, on Mardi Gras morning, before dawn, its members dressed as skeletons roam their neighborhood, reminding residents of life’s preciousness and encouraging righteous living.

A unique celebration

Mardi Gras is essential to New Orleans’ economy, as it draws about a million tourists every year who spend roughly one billion dollars on accommodation, food and entertainment. However, the spirit of Mardi Gras is not about profit. On the contrary, the krewes are nonprofit voluntary societies, and companies are not allowed to sponsor or advertise on the floats. Also, thousands of New Orleanians take part in preparing the events on a voluntary basis. Mardi Gras is a communal, participatory effort, an integral part of local life and culture. Over the years, influenced by the diverse ethnic groups sharing the city, it has evolved into an immensely creative event, aimed at celebrating the magic of life, and capable of fostering a deep sense of community. It’s a tradition that is getting stronger every year, a symbol of New Orleans’ rich and ever-evolving culture.

(Carlo Dellonte)
(Image: New Orleans, Louisiana, USA - 23 febbraio 2019: Mardi Gras Parade, Uomo che indossa abiti tradizionali, lancia perline agli spettatori durante la sfilata del mardi gras — Foto di RobertoGalan, depositphotos.com)